September, so said legendary American Vogue editor Candy Pratts, is the January of fashion. Following a brief summer break after the conclusions of menswear and haute couture – which took place over June and July – Women’s Fashion Week S/S 2025 arrives in New York on September 6 2024, with subsequent stops in London, Milan and Paris. Think of it as a new fashion term.
Details so far are relatively scant, with schedules yet to be announced for each of the weeks. Though some details have emerged: among them, the news that Pieter Mulier will show his next Alaïa collection in the city on September 6, heralding the start of fashion month. It is over four decades since the house’s eponymous founder, Azzedine Alaïa, first showed in the American city, when he presented a collection in September 1982 to an audience which included Andy Warhol and Paloma Picasso. No doubt Mulier – who has garnered plenty of high-profile devotees of his own – will draw a similarly starry crowd. Meanwhile, Ralph Lauren will show the day prior with a special show in the Hamptons on September 5.
Elsewhere, it will no doubt be the season of debuts: chief among them is the much-anticipated arrival of Alessandro Michele at Valentino, who will show as part of Paris Fashion Week. Eyes will also be on Givenchy, Chanel and Dries Van Noten which – at the time of writing – are each without creative directors.
Here, everything Wallpaper* knows about Women’s Fashion Week S/S 2025 so far.
Women’s Fashion Week S/S 2025: what to expect
New York Fashion Week S/S 2025 (6 – 11 September 2024)
New York Fashion Week will begin – unofficially – on September 5, as American fashion behemoth (and member of the Wallpaper* USA 400) Ralph Lauren presents his latest collection in an exclusive show in the Hamptons, the beachside Long Island locale which has long played host to the rich and famous. ’The Hamptons is more than a place,’ said Lauren in a statement. ’It’s a natural world of endless blue skies, the ocean, green fields, and white fences, rusticity and elegance with a quality of light that drew artists here decades ago. It has been home, my refuge and always an inspiration.’
The day afterwards, Pieter Mulier will show his latest Alaïa collection in New York, four decades after Azzedine Alaïa first showed in the city in 1982. It will be his second time showing outside of Paris – an intimate show at the designer’s brutalist home in Antwerp, Belgium took place in 2023 – and will no doubt be one of the highlights of the schedule. ’A city close to Pieter Mulier’s heart and the maison’s,’ said Alaïa on Instagram. It will be accompanied by ‘a series of exclusive moments’ which will take place in the city from 6–8 September.
Elsewhere, expect a continuation of the Tory Burch renaissance as the designer presents her S/S 2025 collection at the week, while New York stalwarts Coach, Proenza Schouler and Michael Kors are all currently slated to show. Wallpaper* USA 400 members Willy Chavarria and Peter Do, the latter showing his third collection for Helmut Lang, will round out the schedule.
Alaïa Summer Fall 2024, which was shown in Paris. Pieter Mulier’s latest collection will be shown as part of New York Fashion Week this September
(Image credit: Courtesy of Alaïa)
London Fashion Week S/S 2025 (12 – 17 September 2024)
Beginning slightly earlier this season to avoid a clash with Milan Fashion Week (which starts this season at 3pm on September 17), London Fashion Week will continue its 40th birthday celebrations with a no-doubt packed schedule comprising the usual slew of energetic, emerging labels amid a smattering of more well-established names. Of the latter, Burberry will remain the chief draw for international editors visiting the city – Daniel Lee will show his fourth runway collection for the British label – while JW Anderson will present another agenda-setting collection. Other names expected to show are Simone Rocha, Roksanda, Erdem, Ahluwalia and Aaron Esh, alongside a new edition of London-based incubator Fashion East.
Backstage at JW Anderson’s A/W 2024 show. The brand is so-far slated to show its next womenswear collection at London Fashion Week
(Image credit: Courtesy of JW Anderson)
Milan Fashion Week S/S 2025 (17 – 23 September 2024)
Milan Fashion Week will run a day longer this season, part of a re-jigging of the fashion month schedule led by Camera della Moda, the week’s organising body. ’I’m very satisfied with this synergetic effort by the four main players on the fashion circuit,’ said the organisation’s president Carlo Capasa. ’[We] had for some time been asking for an extension of the Milan Fashion Week, given its calendar of over 200 appointments.’
As such, the week will begin with Fendi on September 17, the Roman house presenting its S/S 2025 collection at 3pm (this time, the show will take place on a Tuesday, as opposed to its usual Wednesday). Elsewhere, expect a continuation of Prada’s ‘fairytale ravescape’ set which it revealed as its menswear show in June (the house’s womenswear sets usually riff on their menswear predecessors ), alongside similarly blockbuster shows from Max Mara, Giorgio Armani (part of the designer’s ongoing 90th birthday celebrations), Gucci, Versace, Ferragamo, Dolce & Gabbana and Bottega Veneta.
The ’fairytale ravescape’ Prada introduced for its menswear show this June. The house’s womenswear sets usually riff on their menswear predecessors
(Image credit: Courtesy of Prada)
Paris Fashion Week S/S 2025 (23 September – October 1 2024)
No doubt the biggest moment of Paris Fashion Week will be the arrival of Alessandro Michele at Valentino, who will present his first runway show this September (the ex-Gucci creative director’s first collection for the house, titled ’Avant les Débuts’ was revealed in a surprise lookbook drop this past June). ‘It’s an incredible honour for me to be welcomed at Maison Valentino. I feel the immense joy and the huge responsibility to join a maison de couture that has the word “beauty” carved on a collective story, made of distinctive elegance, refinement and extreme grace,’ said Michele in a statement issued after his appointment in March 2024.
A number of other houses – among them Givenchy, Dries Van Noten and Chanel – are currently without creative directors, though will no doubt be present on the schedule in some form (or, indeed, have their new designers installed by September). With Peter Copping’s appointment as creative director of Lanvin effective from September, it is unlikely he will show his debut until next February. An otherwise busy schedule – as has become the norm for the city – will include shows from Loewe, Rick Owens, Dior, Saint Laurent, Hermès and more.
Stay tuned for more from Women’s Fashion Month S/S 2025.
Alessandro Michele will show his first collection for Valentino at Paris Fashion Week this September
(Image credit: Courtesy of Valentino)
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