The opinions expressed in this article are the writer’s own and do not reflect the views of Her Campus.
This article is written by a student writer from the Her Campus at Casper Libero chapter.
Todas Group and Nexus research and Data Intelligence showed that 71% of women do not feel recognized to reach management positions in the fashion industry. The expected response to this percentage is linked to gender inequality and the predominantly sexist culture in which we operate. But it is important to remember that in companies, specifically fashion companies, this reality comes from unhealthy environments and policies that do not value the equality of these women in this field.
The big question behind all of this is: why do men still run in an industry made and supported by women?
Inequality camouflaged by glamor
The fact is that of the 50 largest fashion brands, only 14% are led by women, and there is no woman among the 10 highest-paid CEOs in the industry. The industry, know for glamour, marketing, creativity, and consumption, shows a perfect image that hides the reality behind the figure of women seen, historically, as inferior and submissive beings who remain silent in the face of imposed social issues. As a consequence, they obscure your professional career.
A study carried out by “The Glass Runway: Gender Equality In Fashion” shows that this inequality is linked to a lack of ambition, that is, many begin to conform to the closed universe of male leadership and are so discouraged from reaching high positions. This is because women earn less than men and, to fight to reach the same level as them, it is an “endless fight” since your salaries cannot match theirs. Faced with this scenario of devaluation, female labor stands out with 85% in fashion production and sales.
The various data highlighted in these studies increase the invisibility of the female figure seen as incapable of overcoming these issues inside fashion. Whether through labor, product sales, revenue and leadership position linked to the male figure. Debating the few women who reach important positions in the fashion industry is also talking about the violence and social oppression they have in this middle.
Is it possible to reach this equity?
Completely reaching a balance between men and women inside this industry, given the historical and cultural mentality that society carries, requires political changes and inclusive practices within the company in relation to the expectations given to the image of women.
The logic is simple: historically, women are linked to motherhood and home care, while men are linked to force and leadership. The more companies increase these roles, the more difficult it will be to include more women in leadership positions. The fact is that many of their stylistic and creative works are not valued in the way they should be, since there is no social and cultural knowledge that this mentality can be changed.
Gender, race and work are put on the agenda when skin color is the target of prejudice and the female workforce is reduced to low positions, or even when the issue of motherhood is raised. This reflects a sexist and non-inclusive fashion culture that has persisted in society for years.
In an attempt to reverse this scenario, the so-called Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) pointed out in its recent report that the majority of executive positions in fashion are held by white men. This American non-profit organization is responsible for the so called “Fashion Oscar” which, in this context, plans to encourage companies to change their knowledge
practices regarding racial and gender diversity.
“It is our hope from this briefing that we can hold American fashion accountable for being inclusive and diverse.” – he stated Steven Kolb, CEO of the Institution.
The Fashion Industry in Brazil
In Brazil, women represent the majority of the workforce in the textile industry. Despite the inequality and oppression they suffer, 75 out of every 100 workers are female.
The National Human Rights Council (CNDH) identified slave labor in 150 Brazilian fashion workshops, in the capital of São Paulo, in 2023. The discussion behind situations like this, which occur annually, is the precariousness of women’s work in this environment. Historically, sewing is a home practice carried out mostly by women and, even though this place continues to be dominated by women, reaching high loads positions is still a barrier.
The precariousness of work in the textile sector proves the need to reframe an industry that prioritizes safety in this sector, in the case of Brazil, and improve job offers for these workers since reducing the role of women in sewing means reducing their leadership positions in the company.
The fight for female protagonism
Big luxury brands, like Chanel, Dior and Yves Saint Laurent have often been associated with male names that stand out, such as Christian Dior and Yves Saint Laurent, and this helped to consolidate the image that men dominate the great haute couture circles. Although there are influential women designers like Coco Chanel, Vivienne Westwood, Rei Kawakubo, male names are the ones that have dominated the narrative about what defines “leadership” in fashion.
To black stylist, Ann Lowe, even in the face of the racism she suffered, in 1968 she was able to transform the vision of women within fashion when became the first black woman to have a store on Madison Avenue in New York. Since that time, female interest in fashion specializations and courses has shown the ability to place them in management positions.
Female leadership in this corporate sector is capable of encouraging other collaborators to develop and trust in their capabilities, as well as increasing the creativity and efficiency of teams.
Elisha Cannon, researcher of fashion as behavior and personal expression, discusses on her social networks that: “When there is diversity in leadership, fashion becomes smarter, more connected and relevant.”
Therefore, the reflection that remains is the urgency of reversing this situation among the construction of a society that neglects the force of women as leaders. In the fashion business, negating the creativity and innovation of white and black women is saying “no” to diversity. Female leadership in this industry is to ensure inclusive and fair fashion for all.
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The article above was edited by Gabriela Travizzanutto.
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