How The Women Of Savile Row Are Tailoring Bespoke Fashion For A New Era

The great and the good of the tailoring world came together at Merchant Taylors’ Hall for the Golden Shears Awards last month. Known as the Oscars of the tailoring world, the biennial competition, which was founded in 1974, celebrates the next generation of U.K. tailoring and fashion talent, showcasing their creative vision and technical excellence.

From almost 90 entries, 25 finalists were selected to compete in the Golden Shears Final 2025. Competition was stiff with the exacting judges—including AllSaints founder Stuart Trevor, head of fashion at The Telegraph Lisa Armstrong, renowned fashion editor and creative director Catherine Hayward, Will Adams from Dunhill and Brigitte Steputis from Vivienne Westwood—having the final say.

In what is a typically male-dominated world, it may come as a surprise to some that for the second time running, the three top awards were awarded to women. The Golden Shears winner was Joanna Spreadbury, an apprentice at Savile Row tailors, Huntsman, while the Silver Shears were awarded to Tilda Jonathan, a London College of Fashion student. The third prize of Rising Star was awarded to Kasia Hughes, an apprentice at Connock & Lockie.

The aim of the winners will no doubt be to eventually have their names over the doors of a property on Savile Row, the famous “tailoring street” in the heart of Mayfair, which is steeped in history. For aficionados of heritage, it is a must-visit road on London’s tourist trail. It also remains the one destination in London for lovers of timeless style, with many houses dating back hundreds of years still offering the bespoke and made-to-measure tailoring that made their name famous.

In the 1730s, the street was named after the Earl of Burlington’s wife, Lady Dorothy Savile, as it came under the jurisdiction of the Burlington Estate. At the time, the street was mainly occupied by military officers and their wives, until tailors started to take premises in the 1800s, with Henry Poole opening the first brick and mortar store in the late 1840s. Since then, it has grown to be the premier destination in the world to shop for suits and hand-made tailoring, with customers, including royalty, statesmen and celebrities, choosing to have bespoke clothing made by their favorite tailors.

Managing director of Henry Poole & Co Simon Cundey is the seventh-generation family owner of Henry Poole & Co, having joined the company in 1988. Presiding over the business, he reveals how his ancestor James Poole founded the house in 1806, making military tunics. His son, Henry Poole, took the business to new levels, attracting the future Emperor Napoleon and Queen Victoria as customers. However, it was King Edward VII who created a social hub around Henry Poole’s Mayfair premises and established him as a leader of fashion.

“Having a suit made ‘on the Row’ means so much more than just purchasing something to wear,” says Simon. “You are buying into a long heritage, one that is rooted in status and the nuances surrounding etiquette. Saying that, we are continuously looking to push the business further to keep up with the times, hence our collaborations with names such as Aston Martin, Jaguar, Adidas and Canada Goose, and we regularly make traditionally-crafted suits for film and TV, such as Netflix’s The Gentleman.”

Inside Henry Poole’s imposing Victorian building, the customer lounge area is fitted out with classic burgundy leather chairs and racing-green carpet. Lining the walls are rows of Royal Warrants and certificates revealing the company’s long and esteemed history. Downstairs, across a warren of rooms, tailors and apprentices craft, cut, sew and press handmade suits—from dove-grey velvet dinner jackets to brightly-checked tweeds (“that one is for a famous actor who likes to stand out,” says Simon with a laugh.) The brand only offers a bespoke tailoring option, which involves a choice of some 6,000 fabrics and a nine-step process that results in an exquisite, hand-made garment designed to last a lifetime. Each pattern is kept for each customer, with these records dating back hundreds of years and stored in a “safe room.”

Master tailor Annette Akselberg has worked at Henry Poole since 2022, but has a long history of tailoring, having worked on Savile Row since 1994. Specializing in creating bespoke garments for women, she works closely with clients to design unique pieces, taking each order from concept to completion.

“Female customers used to be rare ‘on the Row,’ but it is a growing side of the business,” she says. “In truth, we’ve always had a handful of female clients, including Lillie Langtree and prominent royals, who we’ve dressed over the years. While, tailoring has been a male-dominated industry, women have also always played a pivotal role behind the scenes, in many of the sewing and cutting rooms, bringing exceptional skills to the industry. Now, however, there is more of a spotlight on the talent with a new tranche of female tailors arriving on Savile Row over the last few years.”

At 32 Savile Row, Knatchbull is a case in point. The brand, formerly known as The Deck, was founded by Daisy Knatchbull in 2019, following five years of working at Huntsman, one of Savile Row’s oldest and most prestigious bespoke tailors. It was there that she was first exposed to the world of men’s bespoke tailoring. The lack of contemporary alternatives for women led her to launch Knatchbull, the first and only dedicated tailor for women on Savile Row, offering made-to-measure and ready-to-wear collections.

“Savile Row has always been a very male-dominated space, so it is lovely to see a big rise in more female focused tailoring of late,” Daisy tells me. “Some of the greatest tailors and pattern cutters on Savile Row are female and the growing presence of women on the street is such a signifier of the changing landscape and also the female demand. Women, such as Kathryn Sargent, the first female master tailor, have paved the way for so many other women, both on Savile Row and beyond [her tailoring house, Kathryn Sargent is located at No. 21 Ryder Street in London’s prestigious St James’s]. I am proud to say, at Knatchbull, we are an all-female tailoring team—we are a brand built by women, for women.”

Hugely motivated by sustainability, the brand was certified as B Corp last year, (becoming the first made-to-measure tailoring house to achieve certification) with Daisy “on a mission” to offer successful, style-conscious women a compelling alternative to fast fashion. Using the finest natural materials, such as worsted wool, silk, cashmere, velvet, corduroy and linen, Knatchbull champions responsible textile producers with transparent supply chains.

With its wooden floors, antique, gilded mirrors and hand-woven, silk wallpaper by De Gournay, the interiors of Knatchbulls’ store aligns with the organic values of the brand. “Having a female tailoring house with a shopfront, amidst a sea of traditional male tailors. has only enriched the essence of Savile Row and helped it evolve,” says Daisy. “It’s a lovely feeling to be able to offer the same experience to women that men have had for centuries.”

She continues: “When we moved to Savile Row, all of the tailoring houses were incredibly supportive and welcoming, which allowed us to settle in quite seamlessly. Even though the landscape is changing, there is still progress to be made but, still, it’s a very different place than it was even 10 years ago. If just one young women can see that women are openly welcomed and have the same opportunities as men on such a globally renowned street, then we are doing our job right.”

Huntsman, where Daisy Knatchbull first worked, is another respected tailoring house on Savile Row, dating back to 1849. Its traditional, wood-paneled rooms, decorated with Victorian clocks and stag heads, give a nod to its rich history but belie its forward-thinking approach to tailoring. Offering bespoke suiting for women, head ladieswear cutter Magdalena Handwerker reveals that a change is afoot and that there is a “shift towards a more inclusive and diverse industry.”

“Women in tailoring are bringing a fresh perspective to Savile Row, not only in terms of style and technique but also in redefining the traditional perception of who a tailor can be,” she says. “Historically, Savile Row has been synonymous with men’s tailoring, but as more women enter the trade, we’re seeing this change. At Huntsman, we have always put an emphasis on catering to female clients with the same level of precision and craftsmanship as men’s tailoring. Women cutters and tailors are bringing new ideas, refining silhouettes, and ensuring that the artistry of bespoke tailoring evolves while maintaining its heritage.”

Indeed, Huntsman has created bespoke women’s clothing for more than 175 years, and during this time has dressed some of the world’s most influential women, including Coco Chanel, Grace Kelly, Katherine Hepburn and Elizabeth Taylor.

“A female tailor brings an innate understanding of the female form, which is essential for crafting garments that are not only impeccably tailored but also comfortable and flattering,” says Magdalena. “Savile Row is in a fascinating period of evolution. The core principles of bespoke tailoring, craftsmanship, attention to detail, and personalization all remain unchanged, but there is definitely a shift towards accommodating a younger, more modern clientele. Today’s customers are looking for garments that blend tradition with a contemporary sensibility, whether that means softer, more relaxed tailoring or bold, individualistic designs that reflect personal style. At Huntsman, for example, we see an increasing number of younger clients who appreciate the longevity of bespoke garments but want tailoring that fits into their fast-paced, modern lifestyles. We’re also embracing technology in new ways, without compromising on the artisanal heritage that defines Savile Row.”

Established in 1821, Norton & Sons is another heritage brand that is turning its sights to female clients, with its made-to-measure tailoring service launching last year. “Norton & Sons has a long tradition of bespoke women’s tailoring, and we’re now revitalising this heritage with a fresh perspective and a modernised house cut,” says the brand. “Although we have always been known predominantly as a men’s tailor, few know about the exciting array of female clientele we’ve dressed throughout our history. From Queen Victoria, The Queen of Spain and the Empress of Austria, to helping create tailoring ranges for Christopher Kane, Jenny Packham and The Kooples. Our women’s tailoring service continues to embody the artistry and heritage of Norton & Sons, while also embracing modernity and innovation to cater to today’s women.”

Elsewhere, Edward Sexton, found at 35 Savile Row, also offers bespoke tailoring for women and has done since the early 1970s. “From Bianca Jagger and Naomi Campbell, to Eva Herzigova and Annie Lennox, we apply our meticulous process and flair for design to suits that help our clients to feel confident, chic and powerful—expressing contemporary female identity through the tailor’s craft.”

Meanwhile, putting a new spin on what is on offer for women on Savile Row, is Jennifer Chamandi, who creates bespoke shoes for women offered in a by-appointment-only apartment-style address. “Opening the Jennifer Chamandi Apartment in such an iconic London location is very special to me,” says Jennifer, founder and designer of the brand.

“I was really drawn to the space because of the significance of the location and what it means to craftsmanship and bespoke design. A core part of the Jennifer Chamandi brand is The Bespoke Atelier, with The Apartment being the home of this offering, so to place our home in the heart of an area that has such a long and esteemed history with bespoke tailoring was the perfect fit.”

Having the last word is Huntsman’s head ladieswear cutter Magdalena Handwerker: “The future of Savile Row is about maintaining the legacy of craftsmanship while adapting to the needs of today’s world. The presence of women in the trade challenges long-standing norms and broadens the appeal of Savile Row beyond its historical customer base. It’s about making the bespoke experience more accessible and relevant to a wider audience.”